• Diminished sensory capability (loss of hearing, sight, smell, etc.)
• Cognitive dysfunction (who are you?, who am I?, what am I doing here??!!)
• Reduced tolerance for temperature extremes, exercise, environmental change
• Increased need for urination and/or defecation
• Inappetance (diminished appetite, or, rarely, increased appetite)
• Incontinence (housebreaking problems, "leaking" or "dribbling")
• Lethargy (more time spent sleeping, less active or play time)
• Living life in three-quarters time--slower to rise, longer time scaling stairs, etc.)
• Difficulty rising, stiffness in gait, generalized "lameness"
• Development of warts, lumps, bumps, etc. (what one vet refers to as "the subcutaneous adornments of aging"!)
• Anxious behaviors--intolerance for sudden movement, loud noises, being left, environmental change, etc.
• A "sensitive stomach"--bouts of vomiting, diarrhea
• Increased susceptibility to viruses/infections and,
• A diminished resiliency or ability to combat them
• A thinning and graying coat
• Sensitive skin

• Please see: "Letting Go"!)
• If you have a pet that has been diagnosed with a life-threatening illness, please see "The Critical Care Pet"!
• If you are willing to pursue options for your aging pet, despite his/her special needs, please continue............

• Do semiannual to annual CBCs
• Do semiannual to annual blood chemistries
• Do semiannual to annual urinalyses
• DO NOT VACCINATE** (Please check out recommended vaccination protocols)
• DO NOT ANESTHETIZE except for "emergency" procedures
• DO NOT OVER-MEDICATE except for "life-threatening" emergencies, necessary interventions, or preexisting conditions (always check on "contraindications"--when a drug shouldn't be given and "side effects" for any drug prescribed for your pet, aging or not!)
• Seek alternatives to traditional therapies!

• PLEASE NOTE: these safeguards offer no assurance of your pet's "survival or longevity"! They may be helpful in identifying "potential" problems your pet may encounter and providing timely medical interventions to avert them; they may verify existing disease processes and confirm existing treatment protocols or suggest new ones...but they will NOT PREVENT THE OCCURRENCE OF POTENTIALLY LIFE-THREATENING ILLNESSES IN YOUR PET--NOR ASSURE EFFECTIVE TREATMENT OF EXISTING PROBLEMS IDENTIFIED IN YOUR PET!)

• Older pets are more sensitive to temperature extremes; make sure that they have a warm, soft place to sleep when it's cool; a cool, soft place to lie down when it's warm! Do not leave them outside "in the elements" if it's extremely hot or cold for any extended period of time! (monitor wind chill factors in the winter and heat indices in the summer)!
• Make sure your older pet's coat reflects the season and temperature!Leave it longer in the winter months for insulation; shorter in the summer months for ventilation!
• Older pets often have thinning coats! In the summer months this may predispose them to sunburn; in the winter months to frostbite! You can add a "protective" layer to their coats by "dressing" them! In the summer, lightweight, light-colored tee shirts work wonderfully well!Use a diaper pin to gather excess materials on top of their backs! In the winter, old sweatshirts can be modified to accommodate their needs! Cut the sleeves off 3 to 5 inches below the armpit and gather excess material above the back with a diaper pin!
• Older pets often have diminished eyesight! Keep obstructions out of their way; do not "rearrange" objects in their living quarters or the environment to which they're accustomed, unless absolutely necessary to protect them. (It may be helpful to attach bells or chimes to doors or provide other auditory stimuli to assist visually-impaired pets in finding their way "home!")
• Older pets may also suffer hearing loss! Visual stimuli should introduced to your older pet as soon as possible. For example, flashing outdoor lights on and off as you call them in at night can be invaluable when your pet can no longer hear you "calling"! Tracking them in daylight is far easier than finding them at twilight!
• Hand signals can be equally effective for hearing-impaired pets if you can attract their attention--i.e., if they respond to visual--sight or olfactory--smell stimuli)!
• Never change your aging pet's environment without "acquainting" your pet with the change! (I recently fenced off a potentially hazardous slope for an aging pet with marginal visual (can't see it) and diminished auditory (can't hear you) capabilities! He immediately and repeatedly ran into the fence he couldn't "see", felt/edged his way along its perimeter, "saw" the flashing night light, found his way home and now knows the perimeter!
• Any change for an elderly pet is an anxiety-provoking experience!Make sure you're there to coax and guide your pet through!!!! Remember, aging pets with visual, auditory, and/or olfactory deficits can and do adapt!!!!
• Older pets often become arthritic! Cement, tile, wood, vinyl or any other "smooth" surfaced flooring may be very difficult for them to navigate! Inexpensive rubber-backed carpets or bath rugs placed strategically on these surfaces can help your pet more easily "rise" and navigate its territory. Many pet suppliers offer products ("Shaw's Paw Wax", etc.,) to give your pet added traction on slippery surfaces!
• Arthritis in older pets is common! Arthritic joints can be massaged; moist, warm heat is helpful as is cushioned bedding! (Please check: Links for on-line catalogs (suppliers) many of which offer "geriatric" bedding and supplies)!
• There are a number of medications on the market boasting "rejuvenation" of aging joints! But be sure to check out the contraindications (when you shouldn't use them) and potential side effects (what else your pet may get if you do) before trying them! (Please see: Medical Miracles...or Prescriptions for Problems!?
• Be sure to keep your aging pets nails trimmed and the hair between the pads of their paws clipped to insure they have the best "traction" possible!
• Eliminate as many "sharp" corners or "pointed" objects from your aging pet's environment as possible--these are hazards that your pet may no longer be able to "see" or "sense"! You can "duct tape" sharp corners with impact-absorbing foam to "blunt" edges, etc.
• Ensure that your older pet has ready access to both food and water, unhindered by younger pets, the elements (e.g., frozen water), obstructions, or barriers.

• Monitor your pet's intake and output (what they ingest and what they eliminate!) Significant INCREASES , DECREASES, or CHANGES in intake and output may signal health problems!
• Older pets often have difficulty "bending" to eat or drink! You can elevate their food and water by placing their bowls on a bench, overturned bucket, etc., or buying or constructing "diners" expressly designed for this purpose! If you feed your dog in a crate or run, buy bowls (clamp or hook-on style) which enable YOU to attach them where they're most accessible for your pet--and change them as needed!
• Older pets may become incontinent! Many pet suppliers offer "doggie diapers" for this condition! Alternatively, consider beds/bedding for your incontinent pet which are machine washable or elevate your pet and allow urine to siphon through the bedding! Be prepared to change your pet's bedding frequently! Incontinence is a medical condition which, in some instances, can be treated with medication! Please consult your veterinarian!
• Stick to the routines to which your pet is accustomed! Always feed them at the same time, take them out the same doors, etc.! Change of any kind is very difficult for an aging pet to accommodate!

• It is important that your older pet get regular exercise...but don't overdo! The aging pet you used to jog with two miles per day may find "shorter" jaunts or walks, broken into several "outings" more manageable!
• Do not let your aging pet "run" with the kids--human or canine; their diminished mobility, eyesight, and sense of balance may not afford them the opportunity to get out of the way of rambunctious children or younger pets nor to withstand the trauma of the "bumper car" mentality of younger animals or children
• Don't demoralize or stress your aging pet by throwing the ball or frisbee further than your older dog can comfortably "retrieve"!
• Develop less strenuous "play sessions" with your aging pet! The "play behavior" of adolescence becomes the "please behavior" of maturity! The importance to your pet, adolescent or adult, is the completion of a task to "please" YOU and earn rewards (attention, affection, etc.)! Be CREATIVE!!!!
• Attention is as important, if not more so, to your aging pet as exercise! The "Letting sleeping dogs lie" philosophy may deprive your pet of the attention he/she craves! Take the time to be with your aging pet; sitting in the warm autumn sun on the lawn with you, lying by your side as you watch television, going for a ride, or simply being WITH you as you go about your daily routine are important "sharing" activities for your aging pet! Attend to their emotional as well as their physical health!!!

• Don't neglect your aging pet's nutritional needs! (Senior foods tend to be low protein and high fat proportionately, i.e., 14% protein; 12% fat is common--which is a much higher ratio of fat to protein than most foods! Though high fat and/or low protein diets may be advantageous for some conditions, current research indicates that aging pets need as much or more protein as younger dogs!) Senior foods may not provide your pet with adequate nutrition/protein!
• Do not change your aging pet's diet unless absolutely necessary! It is far more difficult for an aging pet to adapt to a new diet than it is for a younger one. If your older pet has trouble "chewing" dry kibble, grind it in a blender and add sufficient moisture (distilled water, esbilac, or pedialyte) to make a gruel they can more easily ingest!
• If you're having trouble getting your aging pet to eat, don't go "gourmet"! Offering tasty but troublesome "treats" may cause severe gastrointestinal upsets and potentially life-threatening complications such as pancreatitis!
• Consider, instead, basing your geriatric pet's "modified" diet on foods your pet normally eats: i.e., if your pet has been fed a "lamb and rice" kibble, consider using lamb baby food or ground lamb and brown rice as an appetite enhancer mixed with ground kibble!
• Always include a vitamin-mineral supplement with any "altered" diet!
• In an emergency, as a short-term strategy only, you can force not only fluids but also food with your aging or critically ill pet by reducing the food to a powder with a blender and adding sufficient moisture to make it a gruel; fill a syringe (without the needle--you can purchase from farm or veterinary supply stores or your local pharmacy) with the gruel and insert the syringe at the back of the mouth, behind the molars (lift the lips and make sure the tip of the syringe is above the tongue, and slowly express the syringe)!
• Force-feeding and forcing fluids is only recommended if your pet has a "treatable" or "curable" health problem or you are "maintaining" your pet until such a determination can be made! It is not intended nor recommended as a long-term maintenance strategy!
• Consider nutritional supplements for your aging pet! Many of these contain antioxidants and glucosamines or chondroitin-sulfates to ameliorate the effects of aging and the wear and tear on sensitive joints.
• Don't over-supplement! Some vitamins and minerals in excess can be toxic! Always consult your veterinarian before adding supplements to your pet's diet and be sure to divulge ALL of the supplements (some pet foods now contain antioxidants, chondroitin sulfates, and glucosamines) you're adding to your pet's diet!

• Keep your aging pet groomed! Many pets are resistant to grooming so it's important to establish a regular grooming protocol early on!
• BUT BEFORE YOU EVER TURN YOUR CLIPPERS ON, check for growths or warts--you might inadvertently clip them off or gauge them in your grooming attempts!
• Aging pets may have looser stools, bouts of diarrhea, or become incontinent! Attempting to remove caked residues from your pet's derriere may be particularly traumatic--failure to do so may lead to more serious health problems such as blockages or infections! Be sure to keep the "privates" clipped! (If you have the misfortune of having slipped in this duty, apply moist paper towels or "baby wipes" to soften and gently remove the residue--this may take several attempts; then bathe or spray the affected area; finally remove any remaining "residue" with clippers or scissors and bathe again!)
• Bathing an older pet may be traumatic! Consider, instead, "sponge baths" with a self-rinsing product (such as Bio-Groom's "Super Blue Plus") or, alternatively, "misting" your pet with a dilute solution of Listerine (this has antiseptic qualities, as well) or vinegar (which cuts through oils) and water, then toweling, brushing or combing through your pet's coat!
• Clip or grind nails regularly--long nails on an aging pet reduce "traction" and contribute to the risk of falls or accidents!
• Dental problems are common in older pets! Regular brushing and plaque-reducing chew toys or treats may be helpful. However, if these fail, keep in mind that the risk of anesthesia for a routine "dental" for your aging pet is potentially life-threatening! Ask your vet, instead, about adding an antibiotic that can penetrate bone (i.e., Anti-robe/Clindamycin) to your pet's regimen.
• Prior to any procedure which requires anesthesia for an older pet be sure to do a blood chemistry to ensure that your aging pet can tolerate the effects of anesthesia (a blood chemistry measures such things as kidney and liver function--if either of these is compromised, anesthesia becomes more dangerous/life-threatening for your aging pet)!
• Some forms of anesthesia are "safer" for older pets (e.g., isofluorane, etc.) than others! Check out the "safety" of any anesthesia for your pet! There are some promising "new" (propofol) anesthesias with greater "safety" for your aging pet.

• As your pet ages, expect metabolic, physical, and psychological changes... These are changes over which your pet has no control!
  For example:
  • The loss of sight and hearing in aging pets produces "anxiety"! Sudden movements or loud noises may be "threatening" to your pet! Expect your aging pet to be less tolerant of children, new situations, loud noises, sudden movements, and changes in his/her environment! Try to eliminate as many of these anxiety-provokers as possible from your aging pet's environment.
  • An aging pet who snaps at someone has probably not suddenly become vicious...but is expressing fear or anxiety due to diminished sensory capabilites...and should not be punished for this behavior!
  • An aging pet who is no longer continent is not "punishing you" nor being "bad" but has diminished bladder and/or bowel control!
  • An aging pet who fails to respond to your commands may not be belligerent, stubborn, or willful, but may have diminished eyesight or hearing!
  • The strength, independence, and hardiness of the Airedale is legendary...I consider their "golden years" payback time...my opportunity to return just a fraction of the care, devotion, affection, and protection they have afforded me!

• Explore the benefits of alternative therapies...chiropractic, herbal, massage, and other "holistic" therapies NOT JUST FOR YOUR AGING PET, BUT FOR ALL OF THEM!!!! These are complimentary (not contradictory) veterinary interventions to consider for your pet!

Confirm the diagnosis with a second opinion, preferably from a specialist

Pursue treatment options/surgical interventions (preferably, from a specialist*)

If there is no "confirmed" diagnosis, monitor your pet's health frequently:

• See RX Checklist including:
• Is your pet eating and drinking?
• Is your pet eliminating normally, urine and stools?
• Is your pet "comfortable" (i.e., no symptoms of pain)?

• What diseases, injuries, drugs could cause this problem?
• What evidence can you offer that my pet has this disease or illness?
• Is the diagnosis CONFIRMED???? Ask for lab results, copies of x-rays, results of diagnostic procedures, etc.!

• What is the prognosis (expected long-term outcome) for this disease?
• Is this condition considered "curable" or "treatable"? ("Curable" means treatment can eliminate the disease; "treatable" means intervention can reduce some of the negative effects of the disease but not eliminate it!)
• What are the risks to my pet's overall health if "treated"? (What are the potential "side effects" of treatment? In other words, if I treat my pet for immune-mediated disease with steroids, what is the chance that my pet will develop Cushing's disease as a result of the steroid therapy?)

• What will happen to my pet if I don't intervene or treat? Are there alternative therapies or drugs which might be considered with fewer, less noxious, side effects or known contraindications than the recommended protocol?
• What interventions or treatments have proven most effective?
• What is the likelihood of a successful outcome from each of the recommended treatments or interventions for this disease?
• What is the cost of each treatment/intervention, including routine follow- up!? (Many practices are now assessing additional fees for such things as suture removal, bandage changes, x-rays on orthopedic procedures, and routine follow-up, etc. that have been considered, heretofore, part of the original treatment protocol, included in the "estimate" for cost of the procedure!!! BE CAREFUL!!! Many of these "procedures" you can perform yourself; many are unnecessary!!!!!
• What are the possible side-effects, even if successful, of this treatment?
• What are the "indicators" that my pet is not responding to this treatment or that my pet is having adverse reactions to the treatment? And how should I respond?
• What alternative therapies/treatments are available if my pet is not responding to this particular treatment or protocol?
• Can you direct me to resources/additional sources of information where I might be able to access relevant information about my pet's health problem?